Ep 26: Olga Niemiec - Setting the Olympic Boulders

That's Not Real Climbing

Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.

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Guest links:

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Reference links:

Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goals

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Break after Paris

2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid

5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder...

7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp

16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter

20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead

21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines

26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics

35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem

39:38 - Setting for men vs women

42:30 - Setting for future Olympics?

46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers

48:26 - Competing again after giving birth

53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris

55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood

57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding

1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments?

1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone format stay or go?

1:10:15 - Discord Q: How do you improve your route setting skills?

1:12:59 - Discord Q: Unique challenges you face being a setter and mother

1:15:55 - Where to find Olga